Need Tax Breaks? – 10 Overlooked Opportunities

Posted March 5, 2013 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Taxes

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The goal of every taxpayer is to make sure the Internal Revenue Service gets as little as possible, right? You mean the IRS isn’t a Charitable Foundation? I’d be a serious philanthropist if that was true!  So you need to take every tax deduction, credit or other income adjustment you can. 

Here are 10 tax breaks — some for itemizers only, others that any filer can claim — that often get overlooked but could save you some tax dollars.Taxes

1. Additional charitable gifts

Everyone remembers to count the monetary gifts they make to their favorite charities. But expenses incurred while doing charitable work often aren’t counted on tax returns.

You can’t deduct the value of your time spent volunteering, but if you buy supplies for a group, the cost of that material is deductible. Similarly, if you wear a uniform in doing your good deeds, for example as a hospital volunteer or youth group leader, the costs of that apparel and any cleaning bills also can be counted as charitable donations.

So can the use of your vehicle for charitable purposes, such as delivering meals to the homebound in your community or taking the Boy Scouts or Girls Scouts troop on an outing. The IRS will let you deduct that travel at 14 cents per mile.

2. Moving expenses

Most taxpayers know they can write off many moving expenses when they relocate to take another job. But what about your first job? Yes, the IRS allows this write-off then, too. A recent college graduate who gets a first job at a distance from where he or she has been living is eligible for this tax break.

3. Job hunting costs

While college students can’t deduct the costs of hunting for that new job across the country, already-employed workers can. Costs associated with looking for a new job in your present occupation, including fees for resume preparation and employment of outplacement agencies, are deductible as long as you itemize. The one downside here is that these costs, along with other miscellaneous itemized expenses, must exceed 2 percent of your adjusted gross income before they produce any tax savings. But the phone calls, employment agency fees and resume printing costs might be enough to get you over that income threshold.

4. Military reservists’ travel expenses

Members of the military reserve forces and National Guard who travel more than 100 miles and stay overnight for the training exercises can deduct related expenses. This includes the cost of lodging and half the cost of meals. If you drive to the training, be sure to track your miles. You can deduct them on your 2012 return at 55.5 cents per mile, along with any parking or toll fees for driving your own car. You get this deduction whether or not you itemize, but you will have to fill out Form 2106.

5. Child, and more, care credit

Millions of parents claim the child and dependent care credit each year to help cover the costs of after-school day care while Mom and Dad work. But some parents overlook claiming the tax credit for child care costs during the summer. This tax break also applies to summer day camp costs. The key here is that the camp is a day-only getaway that supervises the child while the parents work. You can’t claim overnight camp costs.

Remember, too, the dual nature of the credit’s name: child and dependent. If you have an adult dependent who needs care so that you can work, those expenses can be claimed under this tax credit.

6. Mortgage refinance points

When you buy a house, you get to deduct the points paid on the loan on your tax return for that year of purchase. But if you refinance your home loan, you might be able to deduct those points, too, as long as you use refinanced mortgage proceeds to improve your principal residence.

7. Many medical costs

Taxpayers who itemize deductions know how difficult it often is to reach the 7.5 percent of adjusted gross income threshold required before you can claim any medical expenses. It might be easier to clear that earnings hurdle if you look at miscellaneous medical costs. Some of these include travel expenses to and from medical treatments, insurance premiums you pay for from already-taxed income and even alcohol- or drug-abuse treatments.

These added medical expenses will be even more valuable on your 2013 tax return. Beginning this tax year, a health care reform act provision now requires you have medical expenses of more than 10 percent of your adjusted gross income before you can deduct them.

Self-employed taxpayers who are not covered by any other employer-paid plan, for example, one carried by a spouse, can deduct 100 percent of health insurance premiums as an adjustment to income in the section at the bottom of Page 1 of Form 1040.

8. Retirement tax savings

The retirement savings contribution credit was created to give moderate- and low-income taxpayers an incentive to save. When you contribute to a retirement account, either an individual retirement account (traditional or Roth) or a workplace plan, you can get a tax savings for up to 50 percent of the first $2,000 you put into such accounts. This means you get a $1,000 tax credit, which is a tax break that directly reduces dollar for dollar any tax you owe.

9. Educational expenses

The Internal Revenue Code offers many tax-saving options for individuals who want to further their education. The tuition and fees deduction can help you take up to $4,000 off your taxable income and is available without having to itemize.

The lifetime learning credit could provide some students (or their parents) up to a $2,000 credit.

Don’t forget the American opportunity tax credit, which offers a dollar-for-dollar tax break of up to $2,500. This education tax break was created as part of the 2009 stimulus package as a short-term replacement for the Hope tax credit, and was extended through tax year 2017 as part of the American Taxpayer Relief Act of 2012, also known as the “fiscal cliff” tax bill.

10. Energy-efficient home improvements

Generous tax breaks for for energy-efficient home improvements expired at the end of 2010, but some homeowners still might be able to pocket a tax credit of up to $500 on their 2012 and 2013 returns, again thanks to a provision in the fiscal cliff bill, for a few common residential energy upgrades.

The bad news is that the tax credit is just a third of what was previously available. You also now must pay attention to specific spending limits, such as $150 for high-efficiency furnaces and boilers, $300 for air conditioners and heat pumps and $200 for replacement windows. And the overall $500 tax credit cap applies to anyone who received any previous energy tax credit since Jan. 1, 2005.

But if you qualify, the tax break is a tax credit, giving you a dollar-for-dollar reduction of your tax bill. And when it comes to taxes, every dollar saved helps.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any decisions or actions based on information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or attorney.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

2013 Retirement Plan Limits and Savings Strategies

Posted January 28, 2013 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Retirement Planning

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A new year and new beginnings! With that said, it’s time to consider adjusting your retirement savings. The Internal Revenue Service recently issued a variety of inflation adjustments for 2013, and retirement savers can now save even more.   Take advantage!

New Limits for 2013

Beginning with the 2013 calendar year, participants in 401(k), 403(b), and governmental 457 or Thrift plans can now save up to $17,500. This is a $500 increase from 2012.  Those aged 50 or older can save an additional $5,500 as a catch-up provision for a total limit of $23,000. This catch-up ceiling is unchanged from 2012.

Retirement Plan Contribution Limits 2013

Retirement Plan Contribution Limits 2013

Small business owners will be able to save up to $51,000 in a SEP IRA or Solo 401(k) or up to $56,500 for those age 50+. This is also the maximum that can be added into a traditional employer-sponsored 401(k) through the combination of employee and employer contributions.

Some 401(k) plans have begun using an auto-increase option that automatically increases the savings percentage each year. This feature became available after a number of studies suggested that most people are too lazy or distracted to ever adjust their savings elections after their initial enrollment.

2013-retirement-limits

While some will not be able to max out their retirement account, everyone should consider increasing their savings amount in 2013. For some people, this can mean simply increasing the percentage of their salary deferral. Do whatever you can do to get the full matching amount.

You can go online or contact your Human Resources Department now and request an increase in your salary deferral beginning today.

Where Do Roth IRAs Come In?

After receiving your company match, Roth IRAs are the next best place to save. Roth IRA maximums are increasing to $5,500 in 2013 or $6,500 for those ages 50 or older. The upper income limits for eligibility begin phasing out at $178,000 of adjusted gross income (AGI) for married couples, a $5,000 increase from 2012. Singles are capped at $127,000. Those who earn more could consider a backdoor method for investing in a Roth IRA. That’s where you convert a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA account. While taxes in the process cannot be avoided, there are no limits on Roth conversions.  Avoiding tax on future growth, priceless!

How much savings is enough? 

A question many people ask.  We always suggest a target savings rate of 10% to start.  How important is saving at a 10% target rate for retirement? The difference between saving 10% of your salary and 3% of your salary could be over half a million dollars for an employee who starts out making a salary of $50,000 and invests with an 8% per year return over 30 years.  Returns are never guaranteed so the only variable that you can control is the amount of your regular contributions. Save more!

comparing-savings-rates

How Soon Should I begin?

While the savings amount is important, even more critical for your success is to start sooner than later!  The value of compounding is not to be underestimated.  More money working longer over time can be…priceless!  Notice in the chart below that starting the same dollar amount of a contribution amount just 10 years earlier results in more that twice the amount of retirement savings in the long-term. Clearly, starting earlier than later makes a tremendous difference! So the key is to start today!

This hypothetical example assumes the following (1) $5,000 annual IRA contributions on January 1 of each year for the age ranges shown, (2) an annual rate of return of 7% and (3) no taxes on any earnings within the IRA. The ending values do not reflect taxes, fees or inflation. If they did, amounts would be lower. Earnings and pre-tax (deductible) contributions from Traditional IRAs are subject to taxes when withdrawn. Earnings distributed from Roth IRAs are income tax free provided certain requirements are met. IRA distributions before age 59½ may also be subject to a 10% penalty. Systematic investing does not ensure a profit and does not protect against loss in a declining market. This example is for illustrative purposes only and does not represent the performance of any security.

This hypothetical example assumes the following (1) $5,000 annual IRA contributions on January 1 of each year for the age ranges shown, (2) an annual rate of return of 7% and (3) no taxes on any earnings within the IRA. The ending values do not reflect taxes, fees or inflation. If they did, amounts would be lower. Earnings and pre-tax (deductible) contributions from Traditional IRAs are subject to taxes when withdrawn. Earnings distributed from Roth IRAs are income tax free provided certain requirements are met. IRA distributions before age 59½ may also be subject to a 10% penalty. Systematic investing does not ensure a profit and does not protect against loss in a declining market. This example is for illustrative purposes only and does not represent the performance of any security.

It’s not too late to make a 2013 resolution that can make your retirement stress free.  So take action today! 

 

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any decisions or actions based on information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or attorney.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 845.563.0537 FREE  end_of_the_skype_highlighting or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Make Your 401(k) Work For You

Posted January 28, 2013 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Retirement Planning

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When it comes to saving for retirement and building a portfolio to last a lifetime, most Americans are way behind. More than 54% of Americans report that the total value of their household’s savings and investments is less than $25,000, according to the Employee Benefit Research Institute’s annual Retirement Confidence survey. What’s worse, 27% have less than $1,000 in assets. Just 11% have more than $250,000 set aside.

Those figures include Americans young and old, those just starting in the work force as well as those about to check out. The bottom line is clear, Americans need to modify their savings and spending patterns to have any hope of enjoying not just a standard of living they’ve become accustomed to but rather a comfortable retirement they would aspire to.

401(k) Portolio

401(k) Portfolio

You work hard for your money. So here’s some guidelines to get your 401(k) on the right track and working for you!

1. Participate in your plan

If you’re lucky enough to have a 401(k) at work, contribute to it. The healthiest 401(k) plans tend to be those where the majority of the eligible employees are participating in the plan. Many 401(k) plans now have automatic enrollment, where eligible employees are automatically enrolled in the 401(k) plan; automatic increases, where the percent of salary employees contribute to the 401(k) plan is automatically adjusted upwards on a regular basis; and investment workshops, websites or advice provided to workers.

2. Avoid risky behavior

What kind of risky behaviors are we talking about? Having an outstanding loan that represents 25% or more of your total 401(k) account balance; not being properly risk adjusted or diversified; not using an investment strategy; concentrating in specific asset classes; concentrating in company stock; not taking full advantage of the company match; saving 2% or less; and not saving at all.

3. Increase your contribution rate.

If you are participating in your 401(k), consider upping the percentage of your salary that you contribute because every little bit matters. Contributing just 1% or 2% more of your salary to your 401(k) can have a dramatic effect on your retirement savings over time.
For example, a 30-year-old employee earning an average salary of $50,000 who increases her contribution rate from 4% to 6% will have accumulated an extra $295,000 by the time she reaches retirement age.

4. Put your plan on autopilot

Face it, its human nature to avoid change. Since what you start you may well just leave alone, make it a positive. If you contribute 6% to your 401(k), you’re likely to keep it that way even if you get a raise. But you should consider taking advantage of any and all tools that take the guesswork out of saving and investing. Consider signing up for automatic escalation and automatic rebalancing tools if your employer offers such options.

5. Take advantage of advice

The median annual return for employees using investment help was almost 2% higher than those who did not, according to a joint study from Hewitt Associates and Financial Engines.

According to Hewitt, one in every two firms in its survey currently offers online investment guidance, and 39% offer online, third-party investment advisory services. In addition, 28% of employers currently offer managed accounts that let participants delegate management of their account to an outside professional.

6. Don’t forfeit free money

If your employer has a matching contribution in the plan, don’t miss out! It’s hard to believe, but more than one-in-four workers leave free money on the table. They contribute below the company-match threshold, according to Hewitt. Contribute enough to your 401(k) to receive your full employer match.

7. Don’t cash out

If you’re changing jobs or leaving your current job, don’t cash out your 401(k) savings. About 46% of employees cash out, according to Hewitt. But doing so can have serious consequences. Typically, you’ll play a tax on the amount withdrawn and a 10% early withdrawal fee. Rather, you may want to consider taking control by considering a 401(k) rollover to an advisor you trust.

8. Don’t over-invest in company stock

Over-investing in company stock means that both your human capital and financial capital are tied to your employer. And if your employer goes belly up, you lose your job and a good portion of your 401(k).  We would recommend contributing no more than 10% of your 401(k) to your employer’s stock.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Basic Understandings of Executive Compensation

Posted January 21, 2013 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Executive Compensation, Financial Planning, Retirement Planning

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In the recent light of corporate governance, board involvement and financial/economic crisises, it is not a wonder why Executive Compensation has become such an area of intense focus.  

Essentially, every company employs key executives who are critical to the success of the business.  Retaining these skilled, well-trained professionals can be extremely challenging in today’s competitive environment.  A well thought out and fair executive compensation plan can help to motivate, incentivize and retain those creative professionals that drive the success of the business.

Weighing Talent

Weighing Talent

Who Gets Executive Pay?

Usually only those members of your most senior management team qualify for executive pay. It is usual the members of the “C-Suite.” By title they typically are:

  • Chief Executive Officer
  • President
  • Chief Operating Officer
  • Chief Financial Officer
  • And other Chief Officers; i.e. Chief Information Officer & Chief Marketing

What Are the Components of Executive Compensation?

While a non-exempt employee earns simply an hourly rate and, hopefully, a benefits package that includes basics such as medical, paid time off, and a 401(k) option, the components of executive pay are more numerous and more complex. They include, but are not limited to:

• Base salary
• Incentive pay, with a short-term focus, usually in the form of a bonus
• Incentive pay, with a long-term focus, usually in some combination of stock awards, option awards, non-equity incentive plan compensation
• Enhanced benefits package that usually includes a Supplemental Executive Retirement Plan (SERP)
• Extra benefits and perquisites, such as cars and club memberships
• Deferred compensation earnings

What Is Executive Compensation Based Upon?

Most organizations have separate executive pay plans and these plans focus much more on the individual, where it is the person for whom the compensation package is tailored. The executive pay packages must still be consistent with the compensation philosophy of the organization. They must be competitive in terms of what is being offered to similar officers within the same industry and in comparably sized organizations. Whereas geography is a huge factor in terms of prevailing wages for non-exempt employees, at this end of the pay spectrum geography is not as an important factor. Recruitment at this level is usually at the national or even international.

Why Is Executive Pay Complicated?

Executive pay is complex for a number of reasons, which include tax minimization, financial reporting, and government regulations. While most of us are left on our own to deal with Uncle Sam and the taxes we owe every April; effective executive compensation plan designs look at the current tax laws and take those laws into consideration. Plan updates are made when favorable tax benefits are found.

The Sarbanes-Oxley Act (SOX) that passed in 2002 enhanced financial disclosure and put limits on what can be offered to executives of public companies. SOX stopped loans to executives, for example. The Financial Accounting Standards Board (FASB) has determined that stock options must be reported on financial statements as an expense. The combination of SOX and FASB regulations has made stock options granted a less popular element of the total reward mix.

How Can I Design an Executive Compensation Plan for My Organization?

This is not an undertaking for the inexperienced to take on by themselves. This is the time to call in an expert and partner with your finance department. The total rewards package for your executives needs to be reviewed by your legal counsel and satisfy your executive pay committee of your board of directors. You must assure that sufficient employment, severance, and change of control agreements are in place to meet the needs and goals of the organization. Concurrently, your executive pay plan needs to have clearly understood corporate-wide measurements to maximize the compensation investment being made. It is critical to get this pay right for the good of your executives, as well as the health and leadership of organization.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any decisions or actions based on information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or attorney.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Plan Ahead Using this Capital Gains Strategy to Lower The Tax Bill

Posted December 17, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Taxes

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While politicians do a sugarplum dance on the edge of the fiscal cliff, it looks more likely that many people will face a 20% federal tax rate on long-term capital gains in 2013. That rate will automatically kick in unless Congress extends the current 15% rate and the President goes along. Don’t bet your holiday cookies on those two things happening.

Those in higher income tax brackets will face the new 3.8% Medicare surtax beginning Jan. 1 on net investment income. The surtax will affect unmarried investors with adjusted gross income above $200,000 and married joint-filers with an adjusted gross income above $250,000.

Tax Savings Idea

Tax Savings Idea

But don’t give up hope. Here is a year-end strategy to consider as a “return on investment” perspective. 

What if you have some great long-term stock and mutual-fund winners in your taxable investment account that you don’t want to walk away from? Consider selling the shares before the year ends. You would owe the resulting 15% tax on April 15 of next year when your 2012 Form 1040 comes due. Assuming you still wanted to own the investment, after you sell, you can buy the shares right back and hold on to them as long as you’d like.

What could this strategy mean to you? Let’s do the math:

  • Assume an investor triggers $100,000 of long-term capital gains and a $15,000 federal tax hit by selling winners now, then buying the shares right back.
  • The $15,000 2012 tax hit will represent the “investment” in this strategy.
  • The “return” on the investment is the tax savings from having the gains taxed this year versus waiting until later when rates are higher.

Scenario 1 – 20% Capital Gains Rate and A Medicare Surtax

  • The investment in this strategy is the $15,000 tax bill ($100,000 x 15%).
  • If the investor would have sold next year, they would have owed $23,800 ($100,000 x 23.8).
  • That tax-savings benefit is $8,800 which translates into a 58.7% rate of return ($8,800/$15,000 = 58.67%).

Scenario 2 – 15% Capital Gains Rate and A Medicare Surtax

  • The investment in this strategy is the $15,000 tax hit ($100,000 x 15%).
  • If  the investor would have sold next year, they would have owed $18,800 ($100,000 x 18.8%).
  • That tax-savings benefit is $3,800 which translates into a 25.3% rate of return ($3,800/$15,000 = 25.3%)

Scenario 1 – 20% Capital Gains Rate and No Medicare Surtax

  • The investment in this strategy is the $15,000 tax hit ($100,000 x 15%).
  • If the investor would have sold next year, they would have owed $20,000 ($100,000 x 20.0%).
  • That tax-savings benefit is $5,000 which translates into a 30.0% rate of return ($5,000/$15,000 = 30.0%)

The Bottom Line

The game plan outlined here is definitely not foolproof nor does it apply in all circumstances, because nobody knows what the long-term capital gains tax rate will be for next year and beyond. Important to note as well, any profits that accrue after you buy back those winners will be higher-taxed short-term capital gains if you don’t hang onto the shares for more than one year.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any decisions or actions based on information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or attorney.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

The American Dream of Home Ownership, Top 10 Things You Need to Know

Posted December 13, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Financial Planning, Real Estate

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In today’s market is the American Dream of home ownership still alive? With rising housing costs and a challenging economy one must ask themselves, what does the American Dream mean to me today and how can I achieve it? How do I pursue my dream? What to be aware of? Herein are key points to consider before you begin your search.

Home Ownership

Home Ownership

1. Don’t buy if you can’t stay put.

If you can’t commit to remaining in one place for at least a few years, then owning is probably not for you, at least not yet. With the transaction costs of buying and selling a home, you may end up losing money if you sell any sooner – even in a rising market. When prices are falling, it’s an even worse proposition.

2. Start by shoring up your credit.

Since you most likely will need to get a mortgage to buy a house, you must make sure your credit history is as clean as possible. A few months before you start house hunting, get copies of your credit report. Make sure the facts are correct, and fix any problems you discover. Go to www.Credit.com for a free monthly report. Need repair help, consider consulting with a credit counselor.

3. Aim for a home you can really afford.

The rule of thumb is that you can buy a house that runs about two-and-one-half times your annual salary. But you’ll do better to use one of many calculators available online to get a better handle on how your income, debts, and expenses affect what you can afford. Only 30-35%% of your after tax income should be allocated to pay for mortgage and taxes.

4. If you can’t put down the usual 20 percent, you may still qualify for a loan.

There are a variety of public and private lenders who, if you qualify, offer low-interest mortgages that require a small down payment. Believe it or not, FHA loans can be obtained with as little as 5% down. A great mortgage broker, not a bank, is usually the best source of alternatives.

5. Buy in a district with good schools.

In most areas, this advice applies even if you don’t have school-age children. Reason: When it comes time to sell, you’ll learn that strong school districts are a top priority for many home buyers, thus helping to boost property values. Location, location and…oh yeah…location!

6. Get professional help.

Even though the Internet gives buyers unprecedented access to home listings, most buyers are better off using a professional agent. Look for an exclusive buyer agent, if possible, who will have your interests at heart and can help you with strategies during the bidding process. Call on them to provide direction on localities and referrals to local inspectors, mortgage brokers or attorneys.

7. Choose carefully between points and rate.

When picking a mortgage, you usually have the option of paying additional points — a portion of the interest that you pay at closing — in exchange for a lower interest rate. If you stay in the house for a long time — say three to five years or more — it’s usually a better deal to take the points. The lower interest rate will save you more in the long run. Your mortgage broker or bank can illustrate the tremendous savings differential to you.

8. Before house hunting, get pre-approved.

Getting pre-approved will you save yourself the grief of looking at houses you can’t afford and put you in a better position to make a serious offer when you do find the right house. Not to be confused with pre-qualification, which is based on a cursory review of your finances, pre-approval from a lender is based on your actual income, debt and credit history. Consulting with a mortgage broker ahead of time will save much frustration in the process.

9. Do your homework before bidding.

Your opening bid should be based on the sales trend of similar homes in the neighborhood. So before making it, consider sales of similar homes in the last three months. If homes have recently sold at 5 percent less than the asking price, you should make a bid that’s about eight to 10 percent lower than what the seller is asking. Bidding much lower could cost you the deal, so be realistic.

10. Hire a home inspector.

Sure, your lender will require a home appraisal anyway. But that’s just the bank’s way of determining whether the house is worth the price you’ve agreed to pay. Separately, you should hire your own home inspector, preferably an engineer with experience in doing home surveys in the area where you are buying. His or her job will be to point out potential problems that could require costly repairs down the road. Know before you go.

Home ownership is still the American Dream! Follow these tips to save yourself time, money and frustrations on the road to home ownership!!

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Retirement and Divorce – Pension, 401(k), IRA and QDROs

Posted November 26, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Divorce, Financial Planning, Retirement Planning

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You and your soon-to-be ex-spouse have both saved and invested for the long-term within retirement plans, accumulating sizable nest eggs. But what is going to happen if you should become divorced? Will will own the assets and how?

In a divorce, the former spouse and dependents may be entitled to a portion of the retirement assets as part of the divorce settlement. If this is the case, the settlement may include what’s know as a qualified domestic relations order (QDRO). This order outlined by the IRS code that defines the what, when, and how the division of 401(k) or other retirement plan assets will occur.  It is a court judgment or order that names someone other than you as the recipient or owner of the retirement assets. This other person or recipient is known as the alternate payee and may be your spouse, your child, or another dependent.

The benefit to using a QDRO as part of the settlement is that the money moved from the retirement account is not subject to the 10 percent early withdrawal tax penalty, even if you and your alternate payee are both younger than age 59 1/2.  But take warning, if the QDRO is not properly executed on, you will be subject to that early withdrawal tax penalty. In the midst of divorce and the distribution of these assets to other parties, the last thing you want to face is a tax on money that is no longer yours. 

Ensuring the Validity of a QDRO

Divorce Planning

Divorce Planning

In order for a QDRO to be valid, it must meet some legal requirements. It must be correctly created and it must be adequately verified. Checking the status of your QDRO at both stages is wise to ensure that your QDRO is acceptable under the law. If this seems like a lot of trouble, keep in mind that aside from preventing undo taxation, the other reason why such checking and double-checking takes place is to prevent someone from illegally accessing your retirement assets.

Creation of the QDRO

To be considered a QDRO, the division of your assets must first and foremost be directed by a court order issued in compliance with state laws. The IRS code states that the QDRO must  include the following information to be valid:

  • Your name and your last known mailing address.
  • The name and address of your alternate payee.
  • The amount or percentage of the account to be transferred to your alternate payee.
  • The manner in which the amount or percentage is to be determined.
  • The number of payments or period to which the order applies.
  • The plan to which the order applies.

Verification of the QDRO

If your 401(k) plan assets are subject to a QDRO, you must provide your plan administrator with either the original court order or a court-certified copy of your QDRO document. Your plan administrator will then follow formal procedures to establish the legality of the QDRO and put it into motion. These procedures are part of the rules set down in your 401(k) summary plan description (SPD), and by law they must include:

  • Notifying you and the alternate payee that the order was received, and detailing the procedures that will be followed to verify the order.
  • Determining within a reasonable period of time whether the order is valid QDRO.
  • Accounting separately for any amount payable to your alternate payee during the evaluation period.
  • Notifying you and your alternate payee whether the QDRO is valid.

A QDRO Case Study

In a famous case, a man paid out $1 million dollars from his retirement plan as part of his divorce settlement. The man assumed that the order was a QDRO, but missed several key elements that caused the order to be invalid. First, the man’s former wife was not identified as the alternate payee. Second, the order did not include the name or address of the alternate payee. Third, the man did not follow proper procedure for verifying the order.

Because the man was the administrator of the retirement plan in question, he argued that he did not need to file forms with himself, and that the order did not need to include the name and address of the alternate payee because he was personally aware of the details. The IRS did not agree, and deemed the settlement payment an early distribution, subject to the 10 percent early withdrawal federal income tax penalty. This error cost him $100,000.

The Division of Funds in a Divorce

How your funds are divided relies in part on the state in which you live. In most states, your assets are subject to equitable distribution during a divorce settlement. This means that 401(k) assets accumulated during your marriage probably, but not necessarily, will be divided 50-50. Other factors, such as the division of the rest of your marital assets, the length of your marriage, or what each of you contributed to the marriage will also play a part in the decision. However, if you live in a state with a community property law, you may face an equal split in your 401(k) assets regardless of the other division of marital assets. Following is a list of states that presently include the community property law:

  • Arizona
  • California
  • Idaho
  • Louisiana
  • Nevada
  • New Mexico
  • Texas
  • Washington
  • Wisconsin

What to Do with QDRO Assets

If you have recently gone through a divorce and will receive money from your former spouse’s 401(k) plan, you have options.

  1. Take the money in cash which can be useful to get through the rough divorce period. But if you receive a lump-sum distribution you will have to pay taxes on the entire amount immediately and will lose the investing and earning power of that money for the future.
  2. Leave the money in your former spouse’s 401(k) plan. If you would like to leave it in the 401(k) plan, you can make this stipulation part of the QDRO agreement. When the money is divided, the plan’s administrator will create a separate account for you. You may not be able to add to this account or withdraw from it until your former spouse withdraws his or her money at retirement, but you will be able to manage the investments of this money and keep it safely tax-sheltered.
  3. Roll over the assets to your own IRA plan. If you would instead prefer an account in which you can make contributions, rolling the money into an IRA is the best option. Transferring the money into an account not connected with your former spouse also provides you with more freedom as you are allowed to withdraw the money at your own discretion.

This legal issues surrounding the use of and the execution of a Qualified Domestic Relations Order are numerous and far-reaching. You will find great value when your attorney works with an employee benefit plans specialist in the drafting and execution of the QDRO agreement.  This is the first step in planning your financial future, make it a good one!

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any final decisions or actions should not be made without first consulting a CPA, Accountant or attorney.

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Dodge Alternative Minimum Tax through AMT-Free Municipals

Posted June 18, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Financial Planning, Investing, Taxes

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Some holders of municipal-bond funds will be in for a surprise next tax season when it turns out that their tax-free investments are subject to tax after all. But others won’t get stung because they have chosen the right municipal funds — those geared to avoiding the alternative minimum tax.

The AMT is a separate system that excludes several common deductions. It was intended to force wealthy Americans to pay their fair share of federal taxes. But over time it has come to snare more middle-income taxpayers. One of the biggest AMT surprises awaits investors who use tax-free municipal bond funds and municipal money-market funds to generate income.  Under the AMT, some of that income might not really be tax-free at all. 

Investors can also run into trouble when their funds buy so-called private-activity bonds, issued on behalf of a corporation for public projects such as airport terminals, hospitals or certain types of industrial parks. Unlike traditional municipal bonds, the interest income on private-activity bonds is taxable under the AMT, although not under the regular income tax.

Avoiding the AMT

Finding which funds hold those bonds can be challenging. One clue is in the name. Call a fund “tax-exempt” or “tax-free,” and under Securities and Exchange Commission rules it can invest up to 20% in AMT bonds. Call it a “municipal” fund and the percentage can go higher.

A fund’s prospectus will tell you if it invests in AMT-exposed bonds. And fact sheets on fund-company Web sites often show the percentage of AMT bonds held. If not, ask the fund company directly. Be careful of the fund you’re looking into, because different funds will have different mandates.

Several fund companies have devised a way to ease the AMT bite, offering funds that are completely free from AMT exposure. Some even label these funds “AMT-free” to make their objective perfectly clear.

Single-state funds typically buy issues only in one state so that residents of that state get both a federal and state exemption. States generally don’t tax bond income from issues of their own municipalities. Those funds are generally better choices for residents in hightax states such as New York, New Jersey, California and Massachusetts.

If AMT becomes an issue for you, fund companies’ Web sites can be good resources for information.

Managing AMT exposure is but one method of avoiding that tax. Besides advising that investors should do careful research on tax-free funds, we suggest spreading income deductions, tax payments and capital gains over time. For instance, if the AMT could hit you next year, pay estimated state income and local property taxes this year to claim the deduction.

Bottom line: It’s not about what you earn; it’s really about what you keep.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any decisions or actions based on information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or attorney.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Points to Ponder Before You Refinance

Posted June 12, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Real Estate

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Monthly savings shouldn’t be the only consideration in determining whether to take advantage of today’s low rates.

Mortgage rates seem to keep dropping week over week. How do you know if it makes sense to refinance?  The question might be, how low can they go?

The average rate on a 30-year fixed mortgage is somewhere around 3.6%, according to Freddie Mac, with the 15-year fixed mortgage averaging a previously unheard of low of under 3.0%. Both are down considerably from where they stood just four years ago. So shouldn’t anyone with a mortgage rate above, say, 5% on a 30-year fixed loan look into refinancing? Not necessarily.

Figuring out whether refinancing a mortgage makes sense requires consideration of several important questions. The first and most important is whether you qualify. Homeowners with low credit scores or who owe more on their homes than the property is worth might have trouble finding a lender willing to refinance their mortgage (the federal Home Affordable Refinance Program might be one option). For those who do qualify, ask yourself these questions before you rush off to sign documents

How much will you really be saving?
Finding out how much you’ll save each month by refinancing is as easy as plugging the amount and length of the new loan into any online mortgage calculator and comparing the results with your current monthly payment. But the monthly payment should not be your only consideration. Remember that the bulk of early payments on a new mortgage typically go to pay interest on the loan. So by starting a new loan you’re essentially restarting the process of paying off mostly interest (albeit at a reduced rate) and little principal. Therefore, you may not be building up equity in your home any faster than you did with the previous mortgage.

Failing to look at the big picture is one of the most common mistakes refinancers make. If you’re very deep into your mortgage, with under a dozen years or less remaining, or have a very small mortgage (one worth less than $50,000), you’re not paying that much in interest anymore. Therefore, the benefits of refinancing are slight.

When calculating monthly interest savings, keep in mind that interest on home mortgages is tax-deductible. So by saving, say, $100 a month in interest, you might only be saving about $75 on an after-tax basis (depending on your tax bracket and other factors). Also, by reducing the amount of interest you pay each year, your total itemized deductions could fall below the standard deduction amount, meaning that you can no longer take advantage of other itemized deductions, such as donations to charity.

What will you do with your savings?
If you hope to free up cash to pay down other debts, from a high-interest credit card for example, that’s fine. However, be aware thatchanging your spending habits will go a lot further in keeping your debt load manageable than refinancing will. Or, if you are thinking about pocketing the savings, consider using at least a portion to pay off principal on the loan. Doing so helps pay down the loan faster and could make a refinance plan pay off in circumstances in which it otherwise wouldn’t.

How long do you plan to stay in the home?
Remember that it will take time for the refinanced mortgage to pay for itself. If refinancing saves you $500 in interest per year but costs you $2,000 in points and fees, you’ll have to stay put for at least four years just to break even. Sell the home before that and you’ve lost money by refinancing.

What type of mortgage makes the most sense?
If you plan to stay in your home long term, today’s bargain-basement fixed interest rates are hard to resist. Don’t be seduced by still-lower adjustable-rate mortgages unless you’re reasonably confident you won’t be staying in the home much beyond when the rate adjusts. The last thing you want is to be kicking yourself a decade down the road for not locking in the lowest rates when you had the chance.

Also consider the length of the mortgage. A 15-year mortgage will offer a lower rate and lower overall interest costs than a 30-year mortgage but higher monthly payments. If you’re unsure whether you can afford the higher monthly payments, consider taking out a 30-year mortgage and including extra principal payments each month to pay down the loan faster and save on interest. Taking the 30-year mortgage ultimately might end up costing you more, but it buys you the flexibility to pay a lower amount each month in case you or your spouse loses a job or another emergency arises that requires you to free up some cash.

Do you plan to take cash out?
Refinancing at a higher amount than is owed on your existing mortgage can put money in your pocket, but it’s not free. You’ll still pay interest on the loan, and lenders have become stingier regarding the practice. If the amount of the new mortgage is more than 75%-80% of the value of the property (referred to as loan-to-value or LTV) the lender may raise the rate and/or fees or decline the application altogether.

Are you better off paying points and fees or choosing a “no-cost refi”?
You might think that you end up paying the same amount either way.  Not necessarily.  Rolling refinancing costs into the loan’s interest rate typically adds about half a percentage point, which could make it the more expensive option if the borrower plans to stay in the home for the full term of the loan. In that case, paying points and fees upfront and getting the lower rate will save more over the long haul. But for borrowers who plan to stay in the home for just a few years, the no-cost refi could be the better option, if the additional cost from the higher interest rate is less than the cost of paying the points and fees upfront.

How soon before you have to act?
The good news is today’s low rates aren’t likely to shoot higher anytime soon.  If you do decide to refinance, prepare for a more involved process than if you had done so five years ago. In the wake of the financial crisis, lenders have become much more careful about who gets loans. Make sure you check your credit score before applying to ensure there are no unpleasant surprises when the lender does its credit check. Also be prepared for more paperwork and longer waiting periods to close on a refinance compared with years past, with typical waits of 60-90 days.

Refinancing might be more work than it used to be, but for those who qualify, locking in at today’s low rates could not only save tens of thousands of dollars over the life of the loan, it might offer them the satisfaction of knowing they took advantage of an opportunity that might not come again in their home owning lives.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any decisions or actions based on information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or attorney.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

How to Avoid Probate – Pay-On-Death or Transfer-On-Death

Posted March 27, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Estate Planning, Financial Planning, Taxes

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Using a payable-on-death or transfer-on-death account is the simplest way to keep assets out of probate.

With either a transfer-on-death or a payable-on-death account, you are in control. The assets in the account pass directly to your named beneficiary and bypass probate, the court proceedings that validate your will after your death and transfers property to your heirs after debts and taxes are paid.

Your will doesn’t control who inherits a POD or TOD account, sometimes called a “Totten trust”.  So when you set one up, make sure its provisions reflect your intentions.

With a POD/TOD account you can name a new beneficiary at any time, you don’t have to leave anything in it, and your beneficiary’s creditors cannot grab the assets in your account while you are alive.

For the beneficiary, the appeal is its simplicity: After your death he or she can claim the assets with proof of identity and a death certificate.

Joint versus POD/TOD?

Joint-ownership accounts are traditionally used by husbands and wives. In most cases, they are important financial tools and work as intended. But for some married couples and single people, joint accounts may not be appropriate.

Because joint bank accounts are generally set up so that the surviving owner receives the entire balance upon the death of the co-owner, some assume that there’s little difference between joint and POD/TOD accounts. Not so.

In both types of accounts, the assets bypass probate when the first joint owner or POD/TOD owner dies, but beyond that there are important distinctions. The legal requirements of joint ownership with the right of survivorship can have unanticipated consequences, including:

  • Loss of control – Each owner in a joint account with survivorship normally has full access to the assets and to any income it produces. If you want to close a joint savings account, for example, you’ll need the other owner’s permission.
  • Loss of part or all of your property – Requiring both owners to approve closing a joint account can be a moot point. A co-owner has the legal right to spend all the money in your account without your permission. In addition, your joint owner’s creditors can target the account.

Points to ponder

POD/TOD accounts obviously have advantages, but before you set up multiple accounts, consider these points:

  • Will you want to name more than one beneficiary? As a general rule, you can name more than one beneficiary on a POD/TOD account, but there are exceptions.
  • How do you want to divvy it up?  If you create a POD/TOD account and want to split it unequally among beneficiaries, make sure that state law allows that. In Florida, for example, each beneficiary must receive an equal share of the remaining assets.
  • What if the beneficiary dies before you do? It’s a good idea to name a contingent beneficiary in case something happens to your first choice.
  • What types of property can you transfer? A few states, such California, also allow owners to use TOD arrangements to pass some types of personal property, such as cars.
  • Does your state have a POD/TOD law? Even without a law, you can probably make use of the accounts by doing business with a broker or bank based in a state that has one on the books. Just bear in mind that brokers are not required to offer TOD accounts.
  • Would a living trust serve you better? A more sophisticated and flexible option to TOD/POD accounts is to set up a living trust. With it you can name multiple beneficiaries, change them at will, retain complete control of your assets and avoid probate.
  • Have you signed a general power of attorney? With it, the agent you named or the trustee of your living trust, generally can write checks and manage your financial affairs if you become unable to do so.

While every individual’s circumstances are different, utilizing provisions in the law that control cost of estate settlement & planning while maintaining control during one’s lifetime is a critical part of your financial planing process.

The information herein contained does not constitute legal advice. Any decisions or actions should not be made without first consulting an attorney.

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Real Estate Investing With Your IRA

Posted March 14, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Financial Planning, Real Estate, Retirement Planning

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

While home prices still may not have hit bottom nationally, demand for distressed properties on at the lower end of the market is starting to grow. Large scale investors like hedge funds and private equity firms are rushing in with cash on hand, and that gives them the upper hand in competition for these properties.

So how does an individual investor, without extra cash lying around, get in? Retirement funds.

It may sound risky, but with strong rental demand and relatively little supply of single-family homes, it could be less risky than the stock market. That’s because your gains are largely coming from rental income not home appreciation, which is why this works so well in today’s market.

The catch is that you have to do it through what’s known as a “Self-Directed IRA”. Not a lot of firms offer these structures, but a few names that do are: Guidant Financial, Sterling Trust, IRA Resources and PENSCO. The firms act as custodian of your Self-Directed IRA, holding the property and dealing with all associated expenses.

Section 408 of the Internal Revenue Code permits individuals to use a self-directed IRA to purchase real estate investments such as commercial property, condominiums, residential property, international real estate, mortgages, trust deeds, real estate contracts, private placements, limited partnerships, limited liability company’s (LLC’s), and many other types of investments with retirement funds held in many common forms of IRA’s.

“It’s really an account that provides greater flexibility than what a third party administered 401K, for example, would provide,” says Kelly Rodriques, CEO of PENSCO.  That’s in part because real estate has become a valued investment opportunity area, given the recent downturns.

Imagine purchasing a commercial property or multi-family housing unit and receiving rental income in your IRA for thousands of dollars a month.

This type of IRA does carry restrictions.

  • The property must be used purely as an investment, with all the income going directly back into the IRA.
  • The owner may not occupy the home or even use it as a vacation property.
  • The owner can manage the property, doing maintenance and supervising the renting, or can hire a rental management company which would be paid for out of the IRA.

It is also possible to get a mortgage through the IRA, that is referred to as a non-recourse loan.  “It’s a loan that can only seek the property, the collateral, as its sole recovery, if the property goes into default, so you as an individual can’t sign up to guarantee the loan,” says Rodriques. The IRA is not just purchasing the property, but it is responsible for liabilities and payments.

All this may sound complicated, but for some it may well be worth the extra time and energy. With a rising number of foreclosed properties coming to the market this spring, and banks far more willing to do short sales on troubled loans, opportunities are everywhere.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax or legal advice. Any decisions or actions based on information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or attorney.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

What Can Affect YOUR Credit Score? SURPRISE!!

Posted March 7, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Credit, Financial Planning

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We all know enough to pay our bills on time and carry as little debt as possible, and most of the time, that is all that matters in your credit score. Yet other, smaller factors that many people aren’t aware of can cause your score to suffer.

  1. Small Unpaid Private Debts
    Many people pay their mortgage, credit card and utility bills with consistency, yet may neglect or forget smaller debts. They may feel that these debts are illegitimate or that they will just go away if ignored. For example, municipalities have been known to report unpaid parking tickets and even library fines to credit bureaus. Unfortunately, any unpaid debt can weigh down your credit score.
  2. Tax Liens
    You might not think of the IRS as an agency that reports to credit bureaus, but Uncle Sam figured out long ago how to use your credit history as leverage. In fact, these records remain in your credit history for 15 years; even longer than a bankruptcy. If you have an unpaid tax lien, paying it off will certainly help your credit score, but it can’t undo all the damage done by having there in the first place.
  3. Utility Bills
    Your electricity bill or gas bill is not a loan, but failing to pay it will hurt your credit score. While these companies won’t normally report their customer’s payment history, they will report delinquent accounts much more quickly than other institutions, so be careful.
  4. Too Many Recent Credit Applications
    It can be tempting to sign up for various credit cards that offer some bonus for your business. Banks can offer tens of thousands of points or miles, while retailers grant in-store discounts when you apply for their credit card. By themselves, these applications have an insignificant effect, but too many credit checks in too short of a time period can lower your credit score. To avoid this problem, limit the number of applications for credit, especially when you are shopping for a home, car or student loan.
  5. Long-Term Loan Shopping
    Consumers may know that too many credit inquiries will lower their credit score. Nevertheless, to allow consumers to shop around for the best rates on automobile, student and home loans, the FICO will not penalize borrowers who have multiple credit checks in a short period of time. Various FICO formulas negate multiple inquiries with either 14 or 45 days. Therefore, continuing to shop around for a loan over several months will fall outside of this safe harbor and will lower your score.
  6. Business Credit Cards
    Do you have a credit card in the name of your business? Nevertheless, almost all banks will still hold you personally responsible for your debts. Furthermore, your payment history is reported to the credit bureaus. Therefore, any late payments or unpaid debts in the name of your business will affect your personal credit, so long as you are the primary account holder on a business card.
  7. Mistakes
    Any incorrect information in your credit history can hurt your score. For example, people with common names frequently find other people’s information in their file. In other cases, typos and clerical errors result in adverse information affecting your score. This is one of the reasons why consumers are encouraged to complete soft inquires at least once a year and dispute any mistakes they find. You can check your credit score annually for free by going to www.annualcreditreport.com

Your personal credit is a serious matter. But following these tips, you can avoid credit pitfalls.

The information herein contained does not constitute legal advice. Decisions or actions should not be made without first consulting an attorney or tax advisor.

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Small Business Owners, Are You Preparing for Retirement?

Posted March 5, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Financial Planning, Retirement Planning

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No pension, no retirement savings — and no solid plan for how they will fund the latter part of their life. That’s the dire situation for many small-business owners.

About a third of small-business owners do not have a personal or business-sponsored retirement plan such as a 401(k), a SEP IRA or deferred annuity, according to a new survey from non-profit the American College. Nearly the same numbers have not even estimated how much money they need for retirement.

Many workers feel unprepared for their golden years. But a lack of retirement planning by small-business owners is stunning because they “have no one else to rely on,” says Mary Quist-Newins, director of the State Farm Center for Women and Financial Services at the American College.

Unlike government or company employees, who are eligible for 401(k)s or similar plans, small-business owners are often solely responsible for their retirement planning. That can be a difficult task for a business owner who is already taxed time-wise.  Saving for retirement can fall to the bottom of the “to do” list. Too many small business owners are just living in the moment, trying to keep the business going. Other reasons business owners aren’t better prepared for retirement:

Just surviving takes priority over saving. Businesses that are in the start-up and early growth phase often reinvest money into the firm and don’t put it into retirement funds. Many small business owners actually stopped retirement funding during the downturn. Certainly when you’re worried about your business surviving, you’re not worried about funding your retirement.

They think the business will provide for their needs. Some owners solely plan on continued revenue from the business or proceeds from selling the firm to sustain them later in life. Then there are those who prefer to rely on their business’ returns rather than the equity or real estate markets. But if the firm goes south, they are left with nothing.

Setting up a company savings account appears daunting. Some have yet to set up an employer-sponsored savings plan primarily because the paperwork seems daunting and complex.

They don’t consider retirement. Many entrepreneurs love what they are doing and don’t see the point of retiring, so they don’t plan for it. It’s hard for many of them to think what life would be like without running the business.

Solution to Overcome the Odds – Keep It Simple

  • Simplified Employee Pension (SEP)
    • Easy to set up and operate
    • Low administrative costs
    • Flexible annual contributions
  • Simple IRA Plan or Simple 401(k) Plan
    • Available for fewer than 100 employees
    • Minimal paperwork and administrative costs
    • Elective employee contributions that employer must match up to 3%
    • Non-Elective employer contributions up to 2% to all eligible employees

Increase the liklihood of your financial independence – Pay yourself through the business & save on taxes!  Don’t rely on the success of your business as the single method for funding your retirement.  The Primary Keys to the greatest success…get started sooner than later and be consistent!

The information herein contained does not constitute tax advice. Any decisions or actions based on tax related information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or Accountant.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm. Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Traditional or Roth IRA, Which is Right for You?

Posted January 19, 2012 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Retirement Planning

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Do you need to plan more for your retirement?  These days who doesn’t?

You may want to consider opening an individual retirement account to complement any workplace savings plan for which you might be eligible.  IRAs provide the potential for tax adantaged, compound growth of your retirement savings.  One key consideration in establishing a new IRA though is to decide whether a traditional IRA or Roth IRA makes the most sense for you. Contrasting the immediate and long term benefits of each will follow:

Rules that Apply to both Traditional or Roth IRA

  • Income Limits – To qualify for IRA contributions in 2011, your income must not exceed $169,000 (phaseout from $169,000 – $179,000) for married couples filing jointly and $107,000 (phaseout from $107,000 – $122,000) for single filers.
  • Contribution Limits – Both types of IRA have the same maximum annual contribution limits: $5,000 for tax year 2011, plus an additional $1,000 “catch-up” contribution for those 50 and older in that year.
  • Timeline for Contributions – Contributions to either IRA  for 2011 can be made until 4/15/2012.  Note that Roth IRA accounts must be opened by 12/31/2011.

Traditional IRA 

With a Traditional IRA your contributions are tax-deductible, provided you don’t participate in a retirement plan at work.  If you and/or your spouse contribute to a workplace plan, you may still be able to make tax-deductible contributions if your income falls below certain limits.  Here your investments will grow tax-deferred until you withdraw money in retirement.  Any withdrawals are then taxed as ordinary income.  The IRS requires that you begin taking minimum withdrawals by age 70 ½.

In essence, a traditional IRA provides a modest tax break now and the promise of tax-deferred, compound growth into the future.

Roth IRA

With a Roth IRA, your contributions are made with after-tax dollars and investment growth is not taxed at all!  You can begin to make withdrawals without tax or penalty as long as the account has been in existence for more than five years and you are older than age 59 ½.  So while a Roth IRA provides no immediate tax break, it does offer the tremendous benefits of both compounding and tax-free growth!  A Roth also provides significantly more flexibility than a traditional IRA.  Since your Roth contributions are made with after-tax money, you can withdraw them at any time!  Additionally, unlike a traditional IRA a Roth IRA does not require minimum withdrawals after age 70 1/2.  As a result, your funds potentially can grow tax-free indefinitely—providing income in later retirement or becoming part of your estate.

The Bottom Line

If you are eligible for either a Roth or a tax-deductible traditional IRA, you must decide whether getting a tax deduction now is more important than not having to pay tax on withdrawals.

Younger investors in particular may benefit greatly from the Roth’s tax free growth. Other investors may find the ability to deduct their contributions now more compelling—for example, if they are in a high tax bracket today, and expect to be in a low bracket during retirement.

Regardless of which type of IRA you select, the tax-sheltered growth of an IRA can be a powerful ally in funding your retirement expenses.  Most importantly, the key to a successful retirement is making contributions to a qualified retirement plan both early and consistently.  No matter what market or economic environment we are experiencing, it’s important to stay focused on your long-term goals.  Contributing to your own personal IRA is a great way to do that.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax advice.  Any decisions or actions based on tax related information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or Accountant.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC  at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm.  Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Investment Strategies to Help You Rest Easy

Posted December 23, 2011 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Investing

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Markets keeping you awake? Here’s some ideas we’d like to share.

Recent years have had no shortage of drama: the debt-ceiling debate, a ratings downgrade of the U.S., questions about European banks and sovereign debt, China slowdown and resulting wild swings in the stock market.  It all makes for a lot of sleepless nights.

Given all the confusion & uncertainty, how can we possibly rest easy knowing our future financial security is at stake? Ultimately, a smart, long-term investment strategy should enable us to weather — and even take advantage — of these kinds of storms. 

So, how to get there? Many times, sitting tight is the best strategy, as long as your portfolio is properly adjusted for risk you can withstand. Trying to react or time the enormous swings usually leaves many worse off.  Yet doing nothing does not always make us feel more secure either.  So here are five strategies that might give you more peace of mind without completely revamping your entire portfolio.

Cash

Examine the amount of cash in your portfolio. Having a secure rainy-day fund whenInvestment Strategy the world is a little crazy helps soothe the nerves. A good rule of thumb is to have enough cash on hand to handle about four to six months of your living expenses in case you lose your job.  That may sound like a lot of money, but with so much economic uncertainty in the air, having that cushion makes more sense than ever. If you are light on cash, there are a couple of things to consider.

  • You can sell into market rallies to improve your cash position. Big moves up along with several nasty moves lower provide great opportunity. We always expect times of volatility in the future, so take advantage of upward swings to ensure you have a sufficient but not overweighted cash position.
  • You might have some large losses that aren’t bouncing back with the broader market when it does rally. You can sell those shares at a loss, and use those losses to offset capital gains when you sell your winners.

Utilities

These companies aren’t sexy, but they have often times proven to be somewhat steadier than the general markets. Ensuring that you have exposure to this sector will reduce the ups and downs in your investment holdings. The Dow Jones Utility Average tends to gyrate along with the rest of the market, but its moves have been smaller.  More importantly, utilities generally provide strong dividend yields, and unlike the yields of non-utility companies, they are historically very dependable. So, even if the utility stocks fall in value with the broader market, you still have the dividend income, which can smooth out the ride and provide more consistency in performance.

Other dividend-payers

While riskier than utilities, investing in very large companies with solid track records that are paying consistent dividends is prudent.  In the “old days”, didn’t we call these companies “Blue Chip”?  In a low yield environment, these 3-6% dividends are higher than treasury yields and you have the added value of future appreciation of the stock as well!  If you’re not sure of which of these stocks to pick, go with Exchange Traded Funds or ETFs to provide a broad diversification to those dividend paying companies.  Again, not terribly sexy, but as with utilities, you get a little income that helps make the pain more bearable.

Gold

Gold, which usually jumps when stocks waiver, can generally provide somewhat of a hedge for the rest of your portfolio.  Volatility in the precious metals markets has shown that this is not an area to time or toy with.  Still, many elements that support gold remain in place.

  • Difficult fiscal challenges in Europe, China and emerging markets.
  • A weak dollar.
  • Uncertainty about the US economy.

Gold, like stocks and bonds, will continue to bounce around, so don’t overplay your gold hand.  Look to enter that market when there are larger pull-backs and position your portfolio for the longer term.

Vices

If the crazy market and the related economic and political mayhem has some thinking about a drink or grabbing a smoke. As a result, vice oriented stocks do fairly well when everything else is going haywire.  More importantly, stocks of companies in the tobacco and alcohol industries can sport yields approximating 4-6%.  Moral perspective aside, these stocks have proven their value.

Once you feel like you’ve positioned your portfolio adequately, including your cash position, you can then start to think more clearly about other opportunities that might present themselves. When panic moves occur, as we’ve seen on a number of occasions during the past several weeks, values can emerge.  Some stocks with strong balance sheets and growing earnings or market share can become a lot cheaper in uncertain markets and present great investment opportunities for the long-term.  Stick to companies you feel confident will endure the test of time.  In the end, patience & prudence will pay off.

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm.  Securities offered through an affiliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Tax-smart Strategies for Retirement Income Distribution

Posted November 17, 2011 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Retirement Planning, Taxes

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The first wave of baby-boomers turns 65 this year, and that means millions of new retirees will begin to switch from accumulating a nest egg to drawing income from it. If you’re a boomer, it’s time to start thinking about how you’ll convert decades of savings into a lifetime stream of income, which accounts to tap first and how best to navigate. Different sources of income have different tax consequences. Withdrawing funds in the most tax-efficient way will not only minimize your tax bill but could also make your savings last longer.

Key Strategies for Retirement Income Distribution

Knowing which accounts to raid first can stretch your savings.

Generally, if you benefited from a tax deduction for contributing to an IRA or 401(k), every dollar you withdraw later will be taxed at your ordinary income-tax rate — currently as high as 35%. Each year, you’ll receive a Form 1099-R from your account custodian that documents the taxable distributions to report on your tax return.
 If you took a pass on the upfront deduction by contributing or converting funds to a Roth IRA, you’ll enjoy some tax-free income in retirement. Your annual Form 1099-R will note that you received a distribution from a Roth account, but it won’t specify whether any of the money is taxable (you’ll have to calculate that yourself on Form 8606, available at http://www.irs.gov). You may withdraw Roth IRA funds, up to the cumulative amount of your contributions, at any time tax-free and penalty-free. But you must wait until you are at least 59 1/2 years old and the account has been open at least five years before you can access the earnings tax-free (unless you use the money to buy a first home).

If you made nondeductible contributions to a traditional IRA, distributions are a little trickier.

Spread out the tax liability

Just as you should diversify your assets among various types of investments to minimize your risk, it’s a good idea to vary your tax liability.  The old assumption that you would be in a lower tax bracket in retirement is not only more questionable but hopefully for you, improbable!  The liklihood that future income tax rates will rise is greater now more than ever.  Hence, it makes sense not to put too many of your eggs in a single basket.

If you have been contributing to a 401(k), 403(b), 457 plan or a federal Thrift Savings Plan, have you avoided accumlating assets in taxable savings and investment accounts?   Reconsider, current tax laws could tax those assets at a lower rate than ordinary income from the retirement plans.  You may also want to contribute to or convert some retirement funds to a Roth account so that you will have more control over how much you pay in taxes in retirement.

First out: Taxable accounts

Conventional wisdom suggests that you should withdraw money from your taxable accounts, can benefit from lower capital-gains rates, before touching your retirement funds. Tapping taxable accounts first not only minimizes your tax bill but also allows your traditional IRAs and other tax-deferred accounts to continue to compound unfettered by taxes for as long as possible. The result: a bigger nest egg.

Of course, every rule has its exception.  Sometimes it pays to tap into your tax-deferred retirement accounts once you can — but before you are required to — so that your IRA doesn’t grow too big, which would result in large required minimum distributions each year after you turn 70 1/2, along with hefty tax bills.

If you have a brokerage account and sell assets that you’ve owned for more than a year, you’ll pay just 15% on your profits and, in some cases, no tax at all. Or, if you sell an asset in a taxable account at a loss, you can use it to offset investment gains, potentially wiping out any tax liability on your profits. Excess losses may be used to offset up to $3,000 of ordinary income per year and may be carried forward to offset income in future years.  You generally cannot claim tax-deductible losses in a retirement account.  Qualified dividends are also taxed at a maximum 15% rate or 0% for those who are eligible.  Although interest on your savings is taxed at your ordinary income-tax rate, the principal (the money you originally invested) is tax-free.

Next: Retirement accounts

After exhausting your taxable accounts, focus on your traditional retirement accounts, such as IRAs, 401(k)s and other employer-based retirement plans. You’ll pay taxes on your entire withdrawal at your ordinary income-tax rate (except for any after-tax contributions you made, which would be tax-free). If you need $20,000 per year in after-tax money, for example, and you’re in the 25% tax bracket, you’ll have to withdraw nearly $27,000 from your IRA.

You can start taking withdrawals from your traditional IRA penalty-free once you turn 59 1/2, but you’ll owe federal and possibly state income taxes on the distributions. You probably can’t invade your 401(k) or similar employer-based retirement account while you’re still working, unless your plan has an in-service distribution provision that allows you to take withdrawals once you reach the 59 1/2 milestone.  But if you leave your job when you are 55 or older, you can take penalty-free withdrawals (but still owe taxes). If you roll over your retirement funds to an IRA before age 59 1/2, you’ll lose this early-out option.

Once you turn 70 1/2, it’s time to reimburse Uncle Sam for all those years of tax-free growth. You must start tapping IRAs and other traditional retirement accounts by April 1 of the following year and take withdrawals by December 31 each year after that.  If you delay your first distribution until April 1, you’ll have to take a second distribution by the end of that same year which could result in a sizable tax bill.

Your required minimum distributions, known as RMDs, are based on your account balance at the end of the previous year divided by your life expectancy, as determined by IRS mortality tables. If you don’t take a distribution of at least the required amount, you’ll be hit with a stiff penalty: 50% of the amount you failed to withdraw. In most cases, you should save your tax-free Roth IRA distributions for last. Unlike traditional IRAs, Roth IRAs have no annual distribution requirement.   Should you have funds left over when you die, your heirs will thank you: Distributions from inherited Roth IRAs are tax-free; those from traditional IRAs are taxed at heirs’ ordinary income-tax rate.

Don’t be afraid to tap your Roth IRAs earlier as a way to increase your retirement income without being pushed into a higher tax bracket. The bottom line: Decide whose taxes you want to minimize — yours or your heirs’.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax advice.  Any final decisions or actions should not be made without first consulting a CPA or Accountant.

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm.  Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

60 Second Credit Card and Debt Reduction Plan

Posted June 25, 2011 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Credit, Financial Planning

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One of the smartest financial moves you can make now is to pay down your credit card debt.  Credit card companies have always been notorious for high interest rates and fees. The passing of the 2010 Credit Reform Act then caused issuers to raise rates even further, though limiting some of the fees that were charged.

The problem is, once you are trapped in the cycle of making credit card payments, it can be difficult to get out.  Worse, the interest that you pay on your credit card balances goes straight into someone else’s pocket!  Interest paid for the privilege of borrowing money, offers you no other benefit. It’s a pure expense.

Credit Cards & Debt

If you want to improve your finances, and move along the path to financial freedom faster, it is best to pay down your credit
card debt as quickly as possible. Creating a debt pay down plan can seem a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be. You can put together a credit card debt reduction plan in 60 seconds or less:

  1. List all of your credit card accounts:  Make a list of your credit card accounts, jotting down your current balance, the minimum payment, and the interest rate. When I did this my list followed this format: BOA Visa – $2,500 – $75 – 9.99%. (16 seconds)
  2. Figure out which order you want to pay them off in: Number the creditors in the order you would like to pay them off.  This can either be by starting with the lowest balance, or by starting with the highest interest rate.  Paying of the high interest card will save you money in the long run, but there is something to be said for the emotional boost that comes from starting with the lowest balance and paying something of quickly. (7 seconds)
  3. Decide how much you can pay toward debt reduction each month: Review your monthly budget, including all expenses.  This can be done quite quickly if you have personal finance software or use an online banking bill pay service.  Figure out where you can cut back on waste.  Experts estimate that most households waste 10% to 15% of their income each month. Look through yours, and decide how many wasted dollars you can reclaim to put toward debt reduction. (23 seconds)
  4. Write your first debt reduction check:  Take the amount you can spare from your budget and add it to the minimum payment of the first credit card you plan to tackle.  So, if your minimum payment is $75, and you can spare $100 from your budget for debt reduction, your payment will be $175. (9 seconds)
  5. Last trick, create a Debt Snowball:  Every month, make sure that extra amount is going toward the credit card account you are working on.  Continue to pay the minimum on all of your other credit cards.  When you pay off the first credit card on your list, take the entire amount that you were paying on that card and apply it to the next card on your list.  So, if your next card has a minimum of $65, you would add the entire $175 you have been paying on the first credit card to the minimum for a new payment of $240.  This is a time tested technique to accelerate your efforts.

While it will certainly take you more than 60 seconds to get rid of all of your debt, it doesn’t mean you can’t get started in less than a minute.  A few seconds is all you need to kick start your debt payoff plan and be on the road to financial health again!

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm.  Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Should you have any debt in retirement?

Posted June 25, 2011 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Credit, Financial Planning, Retirement Planning

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Debt isn’t a bad thing, just as long as you understand the differences between good debt and bad debt.

Many financial advisers have claimed when it came to debt and retirement: The only good debt is debt that’s retired!

No doubt, going into retirement without much debt has plenty of benefits.  Cash flow is better; it helps you sleep a little easier and often means that you can have a respectable net return on your investments.

Generally speaking though, debt is a negative asset.  Pay it off and it’s like earning the return of what the debt used to cost! Money back in YOUR pocket!

But with interest rates still near historic lows and the “cash is king” mentality approaching debt from a strategic perspective is a smarter play.  Choosing to carry certain debt in retirement, if it makes good financial sense, may not be bad.

You see, not all debt is necessarily bad debt.   The key is how to manage debt in retirement so it works to your advantage. So let’s look at some kinds of debt and see if it makes sense for you.

1.  Mortgage debt – Good, as long as you lock in a low rate and earn a better return on your money elsewhere!

The old advice was to plan your mortgage-burning party before your retirement party. That was when retirees tended not to move and interest rates were much higher, in the 9% to 12% range.  Now that people often move when they retire and 30-year fixed-rate mortgage loans are hovering at about 5%, owning the house outright is less of a priority. In fact, depending on your circumstances, you may be better off keeping your mortgage than paying it off.

Among other things, you’ll want to look at the after-tax effect of forgoing the mortgage-interest deduction. If doing so bumps you into a higher bracket, it could have broader implications, such as raising the taxes you owe on IRA withdrawals.

Also take into account how you will fund the payoff. It’s one thing if you have cash to spare earning less than 1%, but quite another if you dip into a high-yielding portfolio or worse by giving up saving in your 401(k) account to just to pay off the mortgage.

Keep in mind too that paying off your mortgage means giving up liquidity, and that can leave you in a more precarious situation, especially after retirement.  It’s always easier to dip into your savings than to go back and get money out of your mortgage, especially after you’ve retired.  In fact, for that very reason you may want to consider applying for a home equity line of credit before retiring.  Any credit is easier to obtain when you still have a steady stream of earned income.

Having that cushion can prevent you from cashing out of investments prematurely or having to rely on high-interest credit cards as a backstop.  Uniquely, you only pay interest on the equity you actually use, and any interest you do pay is, in most cases, tax-deductible. Just don’t treat your equity line as a bottomless piggy bank.

2. Car loan – Bad, unless you’re paying next to nothing in interest

From an asset perspective, there is no sense paying interest on something that loses value over time. After several years of weak car sales dealers have gotten aggressive about incentives, with many offering rates at or near 0%, so keep that in mind during your search.

That said, before you sign on the dotted line, compare the total cost of financing a car with paying for one outright.  You may getter a bigger discount if you pay cash.

3.  Student Loans – Let your kids bear the responsibility, you can always help.

There are more parents today nearing retirement age just as junior is graduating from college.  Those loans a scary thought?  Of course, it’s natural to want to help your child pay for a college education, but planners recommend avoiding parental loans whenever possible.

Here’s a better idea: Help your child apply for student loans in his or her name and then, if you must, help them out later when it’s time for them to make payments. Start by looking at federal student loans, which typically carry low fixed rates, offer income-based repayment plans, and can be deferred or even forgiven.

Even if you don’t think you’ll qualify for financial aid, you’ll still need to complete the Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA) to receive subsidized loans, which are based on financial need, as well as unsubsidized loans, which are not need-based.

Once you’ve secured loans in your child’s name, you can always help them make payments later. But this way you’re not on the hook for the loan and you’ve given you child a vested interest in his education.  Let’s hope my kids don’t hate me for that!

4.  Credit cards – Bad and bad.  No matter what, pay them off as quickly as possible.

When it comes to credit cards the question isn’t whether to pay them off before retirement but how. The wrong way is tapping into your retirement savings. This is not only short-sighted, it’s too easy. Likewise, don’t let big credit card debts stop you from contributing to your 401(k) or other retirement savings plan, especially if you’re eligible for a company match.

A better strategy: First, get a handle on how much credit card debt you have, the interest rate(s) you pay and your total monthly finance charges. Next, take a good hard look at what expenses account for the bulk of your debt.  Unless you can stop the bleeding there’s no point in paying off the debt.  Study your year-end statement for insight into where the money went.

Finally, devise a plan to pay off your credit card or other unsecured debt by the time you retire. If you expect a lump sum from a tax refund, a bonus or the sale of a non-retirement asset, put that money toward your cards. Otherwise, you’ll need to trim expenses and commit to paying a set amount every month. Treat that payment like any other bill.

If you have debt on multiple cards, consider paying off the lowest balances first. Then allocate that payment as an addition to the next lowest balance card, thereby paying that one off faster.  The snowball continues and before you know it….you’re debt free!  Seeing a zero balance on a card is often good motivation to ramp up your efforts on the next.

When it comes to the double-digit rates you may be paying on your cards, transfer your debt to cards with low or zero-rate offers.  Just make sure you cancel your old card too. If your debt is more extensive, call the credit card companies to negotiate a lower rate or work out a payment plan.

Ideally, you should want to delay retirement until you’ve closed the chapter on credit card debt once and for all.  Accomplish that small goal and you will surely rest easier in retirement.

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm.  Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

When It’s OK to Tap Your IRA

Posted April 14, 2011 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Retirement Planning, Taxes

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You’ve been saving diligently for your retirement, but now you need some of that cash to cover today’s expenses. Can you get to it without incurring Uncle Sam’s tax wrath? In some instances, the answer is yes.

When you take money out of an individual retirement account before you reach age 59½, the Internal Revenue Service considers these premature distributions. In addition to owing any tax that might be due on the money, you’ll face a 10 percent penalty charge on the amount.

But there are times when the IRS says it’s OK to use your retirement savings early.  Two popular, penalty-free withdrawal circumstances are when you use IRA money to pay higher-education expenses or to help purchase your first home.

OK for School

When it comes to school costs, the IRS says no penalty will be assessed as long as your IRA money goes toward qualified schooling costs for yourself, your spouse or your children or grandkids.

You must make sure the eligible student attends an IRS-approved institution. This is any college, university, vocational school or other postsecondary facility that meets federal student aid program requirements. The school can be public, private or nonprofit as long as it is accredited.

Once enrolled, you can use retirement money to pay tuition and fees and buy books, supplies and other required equipment. Expenses for special-needs students also count. And if the student is enrolled at least half time, room and board also meet IRS expense muster.

First-Home Exemption

Then, there’s your home. Uncle Sam offers various tax breaks for homeowners. He’ll even bend the IRA rules a bit to help you get into your house in the first place.

You can put up to $10,000 of IRA funds toward the purchase of your first home. If you’re married, and you and your spouse are first-time buyers, you each can pull from retirement accounts, giving you $20,000 in residential cash.

Even better is the IRS definition of “first-time homebuyer.” Technically, you don’t have to be purchasing your very first abode. You qualify under the tax rules as long as you (or your spouse) didn’t own a principal residence at any time during the previous two years. In fact, you can even share your IRA wealth. The IRS says the first-time homebuyer using your IRA funds for a down payment can be you, your spouse, one of your children, a grandchild or a parent.

But be careful not to take out your money too soon. You must use the IRA funds within 120 days of withdrawal to pay qualified acquisition costs. This includes the costs of buying, building or rebuilding a home, along with any usual settlement, financing or closing costs.

Different Treatment for Roth

These home buying IRA options apply to traditional retirement accounts. The rules are a bit different if your nest egg is in a Roth IRA.

The $10,000 you take out for your first home is a qualified distribution as long as you’ve had your Roth account for five years. This means you can take out your retirement money without penalty, and because Roth earnings are tax-free, you’ll have no IRS bill, either.

If, however, you opened your Roth IRA less than five years ago, the withdrawal is an early distribution. As with a traditional IRA early withdrawal, a Roth holder can use the first-home exception to avoid the 10 percent penalty but might owe tax on earnings that are withdrawn.

You can reduce the tax bite by first withdrawing the already-taxed contributions you made to your Roth. In fact, the IRS has specific rules about the order in which you can take unqualified Roth distributions: contributions, conversions from traditional IRAs and earnings. Check Chapter 2 of IRS Publication 590, Individual Retirement Arrangements for details.

Military Exceptions

Members of the military reserves also can receive early IRA distributions without penalty. To qualify, the following conditions must be met:

Conditions:

• You were ordered or called to active duty after Sept. 11, 2001.

• You were ordered or called to active duty for a period of more than 179 days or for an indefinite period because you are a member of a reserve unit.

• The distribution is from an IRA or from an elective-deferral plan, such as a 401(k) or 403(b) plan or a similar arrangement.

In addition, the early distribution cannot be taken before you received your orders or call to active duty or after your active duty period ends.

Personnel eligible for this early withdrawal exception include members of the Army or Air National Guard; the Army, Naval, Marine Corps, Air Force or Coast Guard Reserves; and the Reserve Corps of the Public Health Service.

Allowable, But Not Preferable, Distributions

Early IRA withdrawals also are penalty-free in a few other instances. Unfortunately, most of these are hardship situations that no taxpayer wants to face.

Hardship circumstances for penalty-free withdrawals:

• Payment of excessive unreimbursed medical expenses.

• Payment of medical insurance premiums while unemployed.

• Total and permanent disability.

• Distribution of account assets to a beneficiary after you die.

You also can get IRS-approved early access to your nest egg if you take IRA money on a specific schedule. Known as substantially equal periodic payments, this method allows you to begin withdrawing from your IRA early as long as the amounts are determined by an IRS-calculated life expectancy table.

Finally, keep in mind that the early withdrawal exceptions do not eliminate your tax bill if you take the money out of a traditional IRA. Unlike Roth accounts where you eventually can withdraw your money tax-free, taxes are merely deferred on traditional IRAs. So when you take the money out of such an account, regardless of your age or the purpose of the withdrawal, you’ll owe your regular tax rate on the amount.

But the early withdrawal exceptions do protect you from paying the IRS more in penalty charges. To let the IRS know that you used the retirement money early for a tax-acceptable purpose, file Form 5329. When you report your withdrawal here, you’ll also enter a code, found in the form’s instructions, that lets the IRS know the distribution is penalty-free.

The information herein contained does not constitute tax advice.  Any final decisions or actions should not be made without first consulting a CPA or Accountant.

For more information contact us at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm.  Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.

Retirement Success – Decoding the Mystery

Posted April 5, 2011 by Steve DiGregorio
Categories: Retirement Planning

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Millions of Americans fear the unknown – Retirement. They fear not having enough money to live comfortably. They fear becoming dependent on their children because they cannot afford to make it on a fixed income.

“Americans’ confidence in their ability to afford a comfortable retirement has plunged to a new low,” says the latest annual Retirement Confidence Survey from the Employee Benefits Research Institute, a respected nonprofit think tank.

Fewer than 50% of workers are confident about their ability to retire comfortably. The number “very confident” has halved in a few years to just below 13%. 

Meanwhile, the number who have no confidence at all has nearly tripled, and now stands at 27%. More than one in four.

A similar number of people question whether they will even be able to meet their basic expenses.

I am convinced one of the biggest problems is that people don’t know how much money they will need to retire comfortably. Many don’t even know where to begin. Unfortunately, many advisors are too focused on returns and not enough on planning to meet those needs. The most populular planning method for retirement seems to be guessing.

Don’t leave your happiness and success to guesswork!  If you’re totally baffled, try these six simple steps. It’s not a plan. But it’s something anyone can do in 10 minutes or less, and it will give you a much better idea where you stand—and what you need to do.

1. Figure out how much income you’ll need

What sort of income will you need each year in retirement? What will be comfortable? What will mean real hardship?

Some people will tell you to sit down and draw up an elaborate budget. And maybe that’s the perfect solution, but you could take a shortcut instead.  At a pinch, for most people the best guess for the income you’ll need to live on in retirement comfortably is about the same as the income you need now.

Obviously, a few things will be different in retirement. You’ll no longer have to set aside money to save for retirement, for starters. If you expect to pay off your mortgage by then, you’ll no longer have to set aside money for that. The same goes for putting kids through college. But once you’ve eliminated those costs, the best way to calculate the disposable income you’ll need in retirement is to look at the disposable income you have now.

Sure, you can make adjustments. You may find you’re comfortable with less, or you may want more.  But when you are dealing with the unknown, it helps to start with something familiar. In this case, try your current disposable income.

2. Figure out how much you will get from outside sources

That means how much you will get from Social Security. It may also mean how much you will get from any other pension plan, if you are among the diminishing few who has one.

Social Security is central to most Americans’ retirement plans. It is an inflation-protected annuity that will last your lifetime and where the insurer, Uncle Sam, won’t run out of cash. This is why it’s such a political hot potato.

What does Social Security mean for you? The Social Security Administration posts an online calculator that will help you work out what to expect in benefits. As of 2011, the average retired single worker gets $14,000 a year. The average couple: $23,000.

If you are among the shrinking group of people eligible for a pension, you should work out how much you are going to get from that as well. Add that to your expected Social Security benefits.

3. Figure out how much income you will need from your investments

Once you know how much income you’ll need (step 1) and how much you can expect from Social Security and any private pension plan (step two), it’s easy to work out how much you’re going to need from your own investments.

At the risk of stating the blindingly obvious, it’s what’s left over. For those who have been using computers for too long, subtract item two from item one.

That means a married couple that lives on $40,000 a year in disposable income, has no pension and expects Social Security benefits of $23,000 a year is going to need to provide $17,000 a year from its own resources.

4. Understand how long your investments will have to last

In other words, how long you’re likely to live in retirement.  There’s a very good chance it’s longer than you think. That’s great news, of course. But it doesn’t help your math.

The average life expectancy in the U.S. these days is about 75 for a man and 80 for a woman. Those data are from the U.S. Census. And they’re completely useless for retirement math.

Why? Because you are unlikely to be exactly average and your fears are asymmetric. From a purely financial standpoint, you don’t want to outlive your savings, even by a couple of years.

Furthermore, those life-expectancy figures are measured from birth, not from age 65. Much more useful are the cohort survivorship figures calculated by the U.S. Department of Health. Of those who make it to 65, 25% will go on to live to 90, they show. Among women it’s 30%. And of women who make it to 65, 12%, or one in eight, will live to 95. Quite a few, about 3%, will live to 100.

If you live into your 80’s or beyond, you do not want to find yourself there with your money running out. In other words, to save enough for your retirement you’re going to have to set aside enough money to provide you with a suitable income for several decades. Think 25 years, maybe even 30.

5. Here’s your answer

You now basically have enough data to make some estimates.

Let’s say you plan to retire at 65 and will need an income of $10,000 a year from your investments and you want to make sure the money will last up to 30 years.  How much will you need to save?

Some people will direct you to the annuities market for some answers. An immediate fixed annuity is a product from an insurance company that will provide you with a guaranteed income for life.

A 65-year-old man who wants an income of $10,000 a year for life could approximate that number and buy an annuity for about $130,000. A 65-year old woman would pay a little more, upwards of $140,000 because the insurance company figures she’ll live longer.

So that’s it, right? You’ll need to save about 13 or 14 times the extra income you need?  Not so fast.

Those annuities won’t protect you from inflation. That problem is a big deal! Over 20 or more years, even modest rates of inflation will hurt you. An inflation rate of 3% will nearly halve your purchasing power. There are, unfortunately, very few annuities which offer inflation protection.

A reasonably conservative investment portfolio, suitable for someone in retirement, can do better.

Think of a portfolio of inflation-protected Treasury bonds, known as TIPS, and high-quality blue-chip stocks. Although both offer lower returns than usual at the moment, most of the time you would expect a portfolio like this to earn an average return of inflation plus about 3% over the course of an economic cycle.

Based on those numbers, you probably need to set aside about 20 times your required annual income by the time you retire.

If you need your portfolio to generate $10,000 a year and last up to 30 years, for example, you’d want to start with about $200,000. If you need your portfolio to generate $50,000 a year, you’d want to start with $1 million.

6. Don’t panic yet

It’s no wonder so few people want to do the math. They haven’t saved anywhere near enough. The most depressing data from each year’s EBRI report are the numbers showing what people have actually saved.

Fewer than one worker in two has even managed to set aside $25,000. Fewer than one in four has reached $100,000—itself only enough to generate $5,000 a year.

Yes, the numbers are slightly better for those who are older and nearer retirement. They’ve had longer to save. But even among them the picture is dismal. Among workers over 45, just 54% have even managed to save $25,000 or more.

Remember, this is after three decades of supernormal investment returns. Stocks boomed through the 1980s and ’90s. Bonds have boomed for 30 years. Future returns from here are highly unlikely to be so favorable.

Those falling short will need to save, save and save even more. The sooner they start, the more likely they are to make it.

The one cheerful caveat: The EBRI numbers do not include the value of people’s homes. If you have a lot of equity in your home, you can convert that into extra savings if you need to, either by selling or by using a cash-out reverse mortgage, which allows you to convert some of your equity into cash.  These mortgages typically involve high fees. But they are, at least, an option.

For those facing a retirement-savings crisis, the strategies for adapting are well known but worth reviewing. They include scaling back, moving somewhere much cheaper and delaying retirement as long as possible, which works multiple levers. It gives you longer to save, it gives your savings longer to grow, it reduces the length of time you will need to live off your savings, and it boosts your Social Security income. Even staying in part-time work can help.

There are no easy answers. But the real problem is that most people still don’t even understand the questions.  The best strategy is to get ahead of this problem now, before it’s too late!

Consult with a financial planner or advisor to evaluate and design strategies specific for your circumstance.  Plan now…Relax later!

The information herein contained does not constitute tax advice.  Any decisions or actions based on tax related information contained herein should not be made without first consulting a CPA or Accountant.

For more information contact Compass Asset Management Group, LLC  at 845.563.0537 or Contact@CompassAMG.com

The author of this blog, Steven M DiGregorio is President of Compass Asset Management Group, LLC and an Investment Advisor Representative with Spire Wealth Management, LLC a Federally Registered Investment Advisory Firm.  Securities offered through an affilliated company Spire Securities, LLC a Registered Broker/Dealer and member FINRA/SIPC.